Nicky Over (asker) Dec 17, 2020:

Thanks so much for your help - it solved the problem!

Suzie Withers Dec 16, 2020:

Great research, Althea.

Althea Draper Dec 15, 2020:

I'm guessing this is about a costume worn by Sancho Panza. The original Spanish (from Don Quijote de la Mancha) describing Sancho says "Salió, en fin, Sancho acompañado de mucha gente, vestido a lo letrado, y encima un gabán muy ancho de chamelote de aguas leonado..." I think this is describing a wide, tawny coat made of water camlet. (Camlet, camblet or camelot is a fabric that was originally made from camel or goats hair, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camlet#:~:text=Camlet, also co... )
Water camlets "after weaving, received a certain preparation with water; and were afterwards passed under a hot press, giving them a smoothness and lustre"
However, this same reference tells us about waved camlet which features impressed waves which would fit better with the French translation of the original Spanish! I suppose your choice would depend on whether you have to be true to the original Spanish or the French translation.